This step-by-step pictorial is designed to guide beginners through the mechanical process of cutting, shaping and transplanting fairly simple bonsai material for the first time. It makes the assumption that the reader has already done some research and has a basic understanding of the fundamental shaping concepts used in the art of bonsai such as:

  1. Triangulation and asymmetrical composition.
  2. Primary, secondary and tertiary branch identification and placement.
  3. Selection of primary viewing angle based on trunk movement and rootage . If you do not understand the three concepts outlined above, you would be well advised to invest in a little more research time before beginning this exercise. This is because the single most difficult thing for beginners to master is the ability to “see” the bonsai hiding inside the mass of

greenery from which they most often work. A firm grasp of the fundamentals is of paramount to enhancing your ability to identify usable and non-usable elements of the plant material. Once you have that, the ability to “see” becomes gradually clearer with more and more practice. For this exercise, we have selected a Dwarf Japanese Garden Juniper (Juniperus procumbens nana). We have done so because, junipers are particularly good specimens for beginners to practice on and because they are extremely vigorous growers with flexible branches and trunks. They like full sun, but will grow happily in a wide variety of locations and conditions. They also have the added advantage of being a bit “forgiving” when newcomers make mistakes. Since you are learning, we assume you will be making a few mistakes along the way. Its good to have plant material which is willing to work with you. Junipers (par

Step One: Clean Up

It will be impossible to make any effective decisions about the styling of the tree until is possible to ascertain what the existing trunk shape and branch placement is. The first task is, therefore, to clean up the tree. Start by removing the bamboo stake and then begin cleaning out all dead needles and other debris from the interior of the tree.

One of the things which make junipers good material for bonsai is they readily develop new growth on old wood. This is a good characteristic for any bonsai subject to have. However, initially a great deal of this rampant budding along the trunk must be removed in order to see the trees shape. Start at the bottom of the tree and begin removing green buds and suckers which obstruct your view of the trunk. At the same time remove green growth from the interior of each branch an inch or so thus allowing you to see the position of each branch as it relates to the trunk. Once you have completed this task you will be able to clearly see the shape of the trunk and where each of the branches emerge around it. Next, dig gently at the base of the trunk and remove soil until you find the point at which the roots begin to flare outward. This will be the base of your new bonsai.

Step Two: Wiring & Shaping

Once you can clearly see the trunk line and branches you may begin to make artistic decisions regarding the final appearance of your bonsai. As mentioned earlier, these decisions should be based on your clear understanding of the fundamentals of bonsai design and will be applied to each type of plant material on which you work in the future. Find a front for the tree based on the trunk movement and nebari. Select its first, second and back branches. Determine an apex and the placement of all secondary branching. Remove all others. In a word… Cut off anything that does not look like a bonsai.

We know this is easy to say and not so easy to do, but proceed slowly and carefully. Remember that it is better to leave a branch on the tree, wire it and try to work it into the final composition than to remove it first and later discover that is was needed. Let the Japanese concept of “less is more,” guide you in this. You are trying to make the most dramatic statement possible by using the fewest amount of words… or in this case, branches. In the case of this juniper we have decided to move the top of the trunk to a different location. We will adjust this and the branch positions by using wire. A main line trunk wire of sufficient thickness to hold the bend in the apex is inserted into the soil about an inch or so to anchor it. It is then wrapped up the trunk, snug against same and at about a forty-five degree angle perpendicular to the line of the trunk. Once this is completed, branches may be wired. Always use one piece of wire to wrap and bend two branches. Since the branches are thinner, the wire used may be smaller, but still of sufficient thickness to hold the branch in place once it is bent. Hold the branch securely between your thumb and forefinger and wrap the wire around the branch. Then, with the second half of the wire make at least one turn around the trunk (more of necessary) following the path of the main line trunk wire until you can go out the second branch .

Step Three: Detail Pruning &

Shaping. Once you have move all the branches into the approximate positions for your final design, trim back the length of branches to establish the overall shape of the tree. Remember that all bonsai have a triangular shape. In most cases, the largest and longest branches are located at the bottom. Branches gradually get thinner and shorter as they approach the apex. Once you have shortened the branches to the desired length and established a well balanced composition, begin to work on each individual branch. Remove all green growth which emerges from the bottom of these branches. (Trees do not grow leaves out of the bottom of a branch) and cut or pinch back foliage on the tops and sides of each branch until they begin to develop a pad like shape. In the future, as the tree grows and develops you will need to keep these foliage pads pinched back and well formed. They will become more dense with green growth and add greatly to it’s appearance of age and maturity.

Step Four: Preparation For Potting

The process of transplanting a bonsai from its growing container into a finished bonsai container can be compared to selecting the right frame for a painting. A wise and compatible choice can make a dramatic difference in how the whole composition is perceived. Beginners should be aware that no matter what the size, shape or color of the container they select, it must meet one very important requirement. Containers must always provide sufficient space for the growth and health of the root system. This is a purely horticultural consideration and not an artistic one, but it is very important. The container you select may look fabulous with the tree, but if it fails to provide sufficient room for the healthy growth of the trees roots, it will very shortly not matter what it looks like. Make sure the pot you pick out is big enough. There are a number of bonsai guidelines dealing with the sizes, shapes and glazes on containers when used in combinations with the various varieties and styles. As you study the art you will become more familiar with which containers work best for a particular tree. The juniper in this example will be potted into an unglazed rectangular pot of Chinese manufacture.

Sourse : https://minnesotabonsaisociety.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/beginnerbasics_small.pdf

  1. All You Need To Know About Bonsai ‘How bonsai works’

  2. How to look after my bonsai

  3. Amazing Bonsai Masterpieces

  4. Important this to do become bonsai master

  5. Amazing Bonsai Images

  6. How to make a bonsai design easily

  7. BONSAI

  8. Principles of Bonsai

  9. Bonsai Groth PRINCIPLES

  10. Bonsai Types

  11. Bonsai Watering

  12. Creating A Bonsai For The First Time.

  13. How to grow your own Bonsai

  14. Trunk and Nebari Rules

  15. Rules Of Branches

  16. Pots And Culture Rules

  17. BONSAI SOIL

  18. WHAT MAKES GOOD BONSAI